Parallel Parking

If there is a space you would like to get into that requires the parallel parking manoeuvre, you will need to:

-Pick the space you want to go into, then drive alongside the car in front of the space. You need to leave half a metre (50cm) gap between the side of your car and the other car.

-Slowly drive forward in first gear until your knees are level with the front of the other vehicle.

 

-Then pick reverse gear and slowly drive backwards, keep your steering wheel straight until in your left wing mirror the vehicle disappears from view.

-At this point still driving the car slowly backwards, turn your steering wheel slowly and gradually full lock to the left. (Be aware at this point your car bonnet will swing out into the other side of the road so be careful as this is potentially dangerous if full observations are not constantly used).

 -Then once the same reference point you use in bay parking comes into line with the back right side of the other vehicle, begin to slowly and gradually turn your steering wheel full lock to the right (this brings the car bonnet back into the correct side of the road)- still reversing.

 -Once the car looks like it is straight turn the steering wheel back to the straight position (usually one and a half turns- to the right on this occasion)- quickly this time.

-Then back into neutral and handbrake on. (If you feel like you need to go forward a bit to make up the gap feel free to do this, as long as it’s sensible to do so).

Remember:

There may be a possibility that your car will stray either too close or too far away from the curb when carrying out this manoeuvre, all you need to do is correct the positioning of the car either left (to go closer to curb or right to come away from the curb)- the same curb correction used in left reverse.

Remember to always throughout the manoeuvre check all round observations including blind spots. If another vehicle comes behind or towards you  assess whether they’re going to wait for you or not, then take appropriate action eg. Turn your left indicator on to tell them you have stopped for them etc.


Watch these videos for a different perspective:

 

Bay parking

Before you try and do bay parking you need to understand how reversing works so that you feel confident reversing in your car, and secondly you have to find your reference point in order to be able to carry out the manoeuvre in the first place.

How reversing works:

-To get into reverse gear you need press the clutch down to the floor and select reverse gear on the gear stick, then find the biting point.

-To reverse back slowly press the clutch down.

-To reverse back quickly bring the clutch up (release pressure on the clutch with your foot).

-When reversing you need to look over your shoulder to move into a clear pathway.

Reference point for bay parking:

The reference point for bay parking is the point where you begin to turn the steering wheel in order to reverse into the parking space.

To find this you need to:

-In the middle of the road reverse slowly straight backwards and stop when the line of the bay comes just parallel under your left wing mirror (the bottom of your wing mirror should look like it's touching the bay line).

-Get out of your car and stand on the line you have lined up with facing towards the wing mirror.

Walk in a straight line from the bay line towards the car wing mirror. The wing mirror needs to be in line with the bay line you are standing on, in order to get your correct reference point. If wing mirror is not in line with the bay marking you will need to get back into your car and move forward or backwards correctly line up with the bay line. Again, get out and check the line until wing mirror and bay line are parallel with each other.

-Once bay line and wing mirror are in line sit in your normal driving position and see where the bay line meets a reference point inside your vehicle (see image below yellow line, edge of door handle become reference point)- it could be a door handle or mark on the window etc. This reference point will then act as your point for point of turn when beginning to turn into the bay. 

 

Remember that if you want to go into the right bay you need to use the same method for finding the right hand side reference point for point of turn. Usually in most cars you can transfer the left reference parallel to the same object that is on the right hand side of the car opposite, for example if the left door handle edge is my reference point, this will also be the reference on the right hand edge door handle for going into a right bay.

 

Bay Parking:

-First drive into the centre of the road (only if it’s safe and convenient to do so) and select reverse gear and find the biting point.

-Then check observations, begin to reverse backwards in a straight line keeping the steering wheel straight at all times.

-When car comes to the bay line you wish to turn at (remembering at point of turn it will take you 3 bays back) put full lock on either left (on left bay park) or right (for right bay park). Remember to observe the road around you.

-Then eventually when you feel the car is straight quickly take the full lock off and bring steering wheel to the straight position, so that your wheels are completely straight.

-Reverse backwards (keeping steering wheel straight) until the car fits in the bay nicely. Then secure car and into neutral.

Remember you should be doing this manoeuvre all on clutch control, and possibly using the brake if needing to slow down. Sometimes you may need to use the accelerator (gas) pedal to prevent the car from stalling for example reversing into a slight incline going into the bay as it gives more power to the car therefore preventing it from stalling.

Left reverse (round a corner)

-Drive past and make sure the road is clear.

-Stop on the other side of the road around 3 car lengths away from the junction. Keep a 30cm (1 ft) distance away from the side of the kerb- always maintain this throughout the manoeuvre.

-Prepare the car and find the biting point to reverse etc.

-Check observations, start from left blind spot to right (check all mirrors).

-Reverse slowly keeping the steering wheel straight, whilst doing this look over left shoulder. Glance in left mirror to check the correct 30cm distance of car and kerb.

If car gets too close to the kerb e.g. less than 30cm from kerb, turn one full turn to the right slowly. If car gets too far away from the kerb e.g. more than 30cm from kerb, turn one full turn to the left.

-When the corner of the kerb disappears from the back window stop and put the handbrake on. Check in left mirror to see if distance of kerb and car are still maintained at 30cm. Prepare the car and check observations.

-Now turn steering wheel one full turn to the left (because you will be going round the corner at this point).

-When the car looks parallel (straight) with the kerb straighten the car up by turning the steering wheel one full turn to the right, whilst steering keeping the 30cm distance from kerb. (Use back reference point to adjust car to make it parallel to the kerb).

-Reverse back 3 car lengths and stop (secure the car and return to neutral).

Remember:

Don’t dry steer (steer with steering wheel when car not moving) because this is counted as a minor driving fault in the actual test.


Check out this great video below for a visual look at the maneuver:

Emergency Stop

In an emergency, such as a deer running into the middle of the road you would have to obviously stop in order to prevent hitting it. This means that the way you carry out an emergency stop is important because the maneuver has to be carried out safely.

To carry out an emergency stop you must:

-Keep both hands on the steering wheel, trying to prevent the car from skidding.

-You then need to put your right foot on the brake pedal firmly and quickly, so that the car rapidly slows down in speed.

-Then your left foot needs to press down on the clutch pedal straight to the floor in order for the car to come to a complete stop and preventing the engine from stalling.

In an emergency stop you don't look at the middle mirror before carrying out the emergency stop, because in an emergency you should be more concerned with the hazard in front of you then what's going on behind you.

So remember in an emergency:

-Both hands on steering wheel.

-Right foot on brake pedal- firmly and quickly.

-Then quickly left foot on clutch pedal.

For a better explanation watch the video below (video shows how examiner on practical test with carry out the emergency stop routine too):

Hills starts - up and down

Hill starts - uphill

Assuming that you're stationary maybe parked at the side of the road facing up a hill, you have to:

-Press the clutch down

-Change into first gear

-Find the biting point

-Observations around including blind spots

(Indicate if necessary)

-Then with the accelerator press down harder and firmer than you would normally do when pulling off- you have to do this in order to help the engine move the car to get up the hill.
-Take the handbrake off slowly.

-Then pull away like normal.

If you take the handbrake off and don't use the clutch and accelerator correctly it's likely you will start to roll backwards, if this does happen press the clutch and then the foot brake down quickly and put the handbrake on to secure the car. Then try again.

Watch this video below:

Hill starts - downhill

Again assuming that you're stationary maybe parked at the side of the road facing down a hill, you have to:

-Press the clutch down

-Change into second gear this time

-Put your right foot on the brake pedal

-Release the handbrake

-Observe and indicate if necessary

-When it's safe put your right foot on the accelerator and press down whilst removing your left foot off the clutch

-Then pull away like normal (use the foot brake if you feel you need to slow down).

The reason you would go straight into second gear when facing a downhill start is that if you went into first gear and moved off the car would build up speed very quickly which is unsafe, so by going into second gear straight away the car will build up speed slower than it would do in first gear which is obviously safer to do.

Watch this video here:

Junctions and 'creeping'

Junctions

Junctions are similar to roundabouts in the way of positioning. The same rules apply to position yourself correctly and indicate in plenty of time.

To go left: position yourself to the left of the road if on a single road with no left lanes, otherwise position yourself in the left lane and indicate left- making sure it's safe and clear to go at the give way marking.

To go right: position yourself to the right of the road if on a single road with no right lanes, otherwise position yourself in the right lane and indicate right- making sure it's safe and clear to go at the give way marking.

At junctions always look left and right at least twice, have a final check to your right to make sure no other vehicle is coming and be especially cautious of motorbikes at junctions because they are small, fast and hard to see.

There two types of junctions, these are called 'open' and 'closed' junctions. An open junction is where from a fair distance on approaching a junction you can see what the traffic is doing ahead of you on the road you want to turn into. A closed junction on the other hand is where you cannot see the traffic at all. At closed junctions you will have to use first gear to pull away because you will have to stop to assess what the traffic is doing and if it's safe to go. Whereas in an open junction you can see the traffic and the gaps in it so you might not have to stop at all (but you still need a low gear such as one or two to merge into the traffic on the road you want to turn into).

Creeping

Creeping is the term used when you are at for example the end of a junction and instead of putting your handbrake on and then preparing to go e.g. finding the biting point and then using the moving off routine, instead you simply use the clutch to roll the car forward and if it's safe to go you drive on.


To creep forward: Slow down, change into first (recommended) or second gear and bring the clutch up to the biting point of the car, let the car slowly move forwards and whilst doing this observe whether it's safe to go- (it's advisable to hover your right foot over the brake e.g. in case of rolling or needing to stop for another reason). If it isn't safe to go stop the car and put the handbrake on, then start the moving off routine.


Although creeping is a useful method to use in order to merge from a junction you have to use it with extreme caution because it can be dangerous, I would advise only to do this when your driving instructor thinks you are ready to- my tutor did this with me.

Roundabouts

To go round a roundabout you need to position yourself in the correct lane and indicate correctly and in plenty of time too.

To go left: position yourself in the left hand lane (the outer lane) and indicate left.
To go ahead: position yourself in the left hand lane (the outer lane) and this time indicate left just after you pass the entrance to the left turning, then go ahead.
To go right: position yourself in the right lane (the inner lane) and indicate right.
 
You have to remember to cancel your signals when necessary, and if you end up getting lost don't worry go round the roundabout again and be more observant to which lane and turning you need to drive to. However it's not advisable to do a u-turn on a mini roundabout because this is dangerous and could confuse other drivers to where you are going. You need to give way to traffic that is coming on your right because they have right of way, just before pulling off make sure you observe the traffic until it's safe to go and again be careful of motorbikes.

Moving off, slowing down and stopping

Moving off

In a manual car:

-Set first gear,
-Set the accelerator (gas),
-Find biting point,
-Observe around you, so start from left blind spot check left mirror, middle mirror, right mirror and right blind spot.

(Use the indicators here only if there is someone that could benefit from the signal e.g. a car behind you or a pedestrian etc, if there is traffic behind you let them go past first and then pull away- if the indicator is still on cancel it straight away.
But if there isn’t anyone around who could benefit from the signal then you don’t need to use the indicators at all, so just move onto the next stage of preparation.)

-If it’s safe, release the handbrake and pull away (then go into second gear). (When you’re releasing the handbrake use your left hand- so press the button in and push down, and keep your right hand on the steering wheel to keep control of the car whilst looking around to check it’s still safe to go.)

For a better explanation watch this video:

  

 

Slowing down and stopping

 

To slow the car down simply gently press on the brake pedal and change to the appropriate gears which complement the speed you are traveling. For example if I am traveling at 40 mph and I want to slow down to 30 mph I would have to change my gear from 4th to 3rd gear.

 

To come to a complete stop simply slow the car down then press the clutch down and then the brake pedal and you will come to a complete stop. You must do this gently in order to stop gently.

 

Before braking and slowing down you must assess the traffic behind you to see if it's safe enough to take this action, to do this simply look in your middle mirror (main mirror) to see out the back to what the following traffic behind is doing.

 

Steering - Push me, pull me!

The type of steering which is most likely to be taught to a learner is known as the 'Push me, Pull me' method, this basically is when the driver threads the steering wheel through their hands. 

To understand what you have to do the best thing to do is to watch this video below:

Biting point

You know when you have the biting point of the car because the noise of the car will sound different from when you switch the engine on (and usually the back end of the car dips down slightly). It's easier to learn the biting point in a diesel car because you can hear all the noises louder than in a petrol car and also you're more unlikely to stall too.

To get the biting point:

-Press the clutch down right to the floor and keep it there.
-Select first gear on the gear stick.
-Press down on the accelerator just slightly.
-Then bring up the clutch pedal slightly until you hear the car engine noise change slightly- this should be the biting point of the car.

Then move off:
-Put the handbrake down (off) and press on the accelerator a bit more and you should start moving forwards.
-Take your foot off the clutch and at the correct speed change to second gear.

But for a more useful detailed explanation watch this video:

Gears and clutch

1st gear: use when speeds are low such as below 10 mph- e.g. it should be used for moving off.

2nd gear: use when speeds reach between 10 to 15 mph.

3rd gear: use when speeds reach between 15 to 20 mph.

4th gear: use when speeds reach between 35 to 40mph.

5th gear: use when speeds are high such as above 45 mph, this is also known as the ‘cruising speed’- e.g. usually used on dual carriageways and motorways.

 

The purpose of the clutch is to disengage the engine from the wheels, but you would best know its purpose when driving to change the gears in order to alter the speed of the car. In order to use the clutch to change the gears press the clutch down to the floor, then with your left hand change into the gear you want to go into using the gear stick.

Mirrors

When going left: use middle and left mirror.

When going right: use middle and right mirror.

When going ahead: use all three mirrors- left, middle and right mirrors.

Positions of head, hands and feet

Head: The head should have the correct position against the head restraint (also previously known as head rest). The head restraint should be as high as the top of your head and the centre of it positioned in line with your eye. It’s important for the head restraint to be adjusted correctly because it reduces the risk of neck (such as whiplash) and spine injuries.

Hands: The left hand should be used to control the handbrake, gear stick, left stem (usually this is where the indicators and light switches are found) and the other controls such as air conditioning, the radio and so on.  The right hand needs to control the other usual controls which are found on the right of the vehicle such as the right stem (which usually controls the windscreen wipers etc). The right hand should also be kept on the steering wheel when using the left hand whilst using the handbrake and gear stick- this is simply is to control the car whist driving for safety reasons.

Feet: The left foot controls the clutch and brake pedals, whilst the right foot controls the accelerator pedal. The reason for this is because it’s the safest way to drive, the feet don’t get tangled up trying to reach the different pedals and it’s also less confusing to drive this way too.

 

 

Welcome and useful links

Welcome to TheLHelp, this site is set up to help new UK learner drivers in manual cars.

I am currently learning to drive and found that I have a fantastic driving instructor which explains things very clearly so I thought I would share what I have learnt with others who may be struggling. The idea came to me after helping a few people on the Student Room after they asked me many questions about driving as they were in the first stages of starting to drive.

I use many different sites that have and still are helping learn how to drive, I mainly watch online videos because as I am a more visual learner I understand things more when I see how they're being done and the different perspectives one gets from watching the videos. I highly recommend searching around on places like YouTube to learn the different driving techniques.

One of the first things you will need to know is the rules of the road and what the different signs and signals mean, so I suggest you read all of the Highway Code book before you actually start to drive because it will help a lot, it did me! You will further need to learn the Highway Code in order to pass the Driving Theory exam too. You can either buy a Highway Code book online or in a book shop for not much money, or you could buy a CD with it on, alternatively you can read it here.

One day I hope that if this proves useful to set up a proper website to help everyone pass their test, but for now it's in the experimental stages. If you would like to leave comments feel free and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

 

I have to again be clear that I am currently a learner driver near to the end of learning, which means I am not any sort of qualified driving instructor so the advice I give you is only what I feel has helped me learn and may not be suitable for you or the correct way you're meant to learn now as things might have changed.